It’s a frequent sight: someone short being unable to reach the next hold while the taller climber, with a massive wingspan, simply proceeds with ease.
If you’re a dude who has brought a girl to a climbing gym, she’ll most likely say: “It’s not fair, you’re taller than me!”
But… Is this really true? Does being taller and having a longer wingspan make easier climbing? Let’s swing into it.
Wingspan? Ape Index?
Your wingspan refers to the length of your arms from end-to-end when raised parallel to the ground; ape index is simply the ratio of your wingspan to your height.
If your wingspan is longer than your height, that means you have a positive ape index; if it’s shorter, that means a negative ape index; if it’s the same, that’s a neutral ape index.
Here’s an example:
Tomoa Narasaki, one of the greatest indoor competition climbers, has an ape index of +10cm. He stands at 170cm tall, but essentially, his arms add another 10cm to his climbing, supposedly making it easier for him to, well, climb.
Does it truly matter?
Honestly, my answer is going to piss some people off but…
Yes, it matters (with a caveat).
I feel that the people who are saying it doesn’t matter are those who are already at a high level (or who are tall themselves).
When you’re as good as Ai Mori (154cm), Brooke Rabatou (157cm), or Ashima Shiraishi (155cm) — then sure, it doesn’t matter that much. After all, if you’re so incredibly good with your techniques, height and reach become obstacles that can be overcome.
Take for example the insane feat that Ai Mori performed at the Women’s Boulder Semi-Final in Innsbruck, 2023.
Ai Mori managed to do this route because she’s just so damn good. The 21-year-old Japanese climber used a tiny, tiny screw hold on her left for leverage, before managing to painstakingly shift her body to the side before topping.
Contrastingly, Janja simply reached out to grab the hold on her left without any struggle, then topped the route quickly.
But how many people can do what Ai Mori did?
At the beginner level, short people are always going to feel the height disadvantage more.
The argument that they can crimp better and fit into the climbing ‘box’ better is undeniably true.
But at the lower levels, climbers aren’t usually thinking about crimping optimally or doing drop-knees. They’re usually not even doing sit-starts or any sort of tight, boxy moves.
In fact, at the lower levels, many moves are straightforward. Sometimes, there are occasional dynos — but those favour tall climbers.
And easy routes will always benefit the taller climber since there’s less technique involved. Physicality > Technique.
Moreover, tall people can always learn to crimp better and get more flexible, but short people cannot train to get taller (Of course, they can train to jump higher.).
some empathy, perhaps?
I understand that tall climbers may feel frustrated or annoyed by this post.
I, too, get annoyed when my shorter friends say, “Oh, you can only do it because you’re taller!” or “It’s not fair, your wingspan is so much longer than mine!”
When people say such things, it feels like it’s taking away from your climb. After all, there’s so much more to climbing than just your height and reach.
I remember getting irritated because after doing a difficult compression move, my friend simply said I could do it because of my reach! Never mind the fact that the route required strength and balance!
Imagine telling Janja Garnbret, the greatest indoor boulderer of all time, that she’s so good not because of her incredible work ethic, coordination mastery, strength, and dedication — but because she’s just taller and longer than other athletes.
It’ll be like a slap in the face.
So, I think both short and tall climbers should be kinder to one another.
If you’re tall, you have certain advantages that are more impactful at the lower levels. Accept that it can seem very unfair to short climbers.
If you’re short, yes, it’ll be harder on a lot of reach-y moves, especially in the beginning, but there’s no need to make snarky remarks about your taller friends.
Want to take level up your climbing? Check out how to change your mindset towards becoming more growth-oriented for better climbing gains!